I have made a fool out of myself so many times when it comes to impulsive (dumb) purchases and errors and mishaps at the workshop. I've also always been curious and consulted people in the know of both technical matters and training experience. Some of these scraps of knowledge are collected on this page.
MAINTENANCE
Let the old kevlar tyre run it's last miles inside your new tyre. Cut off the bead and use the rest of the tyre as an inlay.
A badly cut 700C folding tyre is a real pain because it's so expensive, but sometimes it can be fixed with instant glue.
- Dismount the tyre and clean it thouroughly
- Pinch the rubber between thumb and forefinger so that the cut opens
- Dispense instant glue in the cut
- Press the sides tightly together until the glue has dryed
Superglue can be used for UST tyres in the occurrence of small flats.
- Do not remove the tire
- Completely dry the area to be repaired on the surface of the tire
- Degrease it with something like acetone or C oil
- Pinch the flat externally so that the hole is opened
- Put a glue type cyanoacrylate in it (Loctite 4850 is advised by Hutchinson)
- Let it dry for approximately 3 minutes while holding the puncture closed
- Inflate tire to the recommended pressure
In case of a larger cut:
- Remove the tire
- Completely dry the area to be repaired on the surface of the tire
- Degrease it with something like acetone or C oil
- Pinch the flat externally so that the hole is opened
- Put glue type cyanoacrylate in it (Loctite 4850 advised by Hutchinson)
- Let it dry approximately 3 minutes while holding the puncture closed
- Remove the tire from the rim and find the tear on the inner surface of the tire
- Turn the tire inside out
- Spread a thin layer of glue
- Let the glue dry for 15 seconds
- Apply the patch to the glue and press firmly for 1 minute
- Reinstall the tire
- Inflate tire to the recommended pressure.
Most tyres have a a directional tread pattern, remember to fit tyres accordingly. Just recently I found out that I - for years! - have been riding with the rear tyre mounted the wrong way :-| For more info. about this matter see Michelin's web site: Fitting Direction of Michelin Mountain Bike Tyre
Why use tubes at all?!
I have recently dumped tubes on both my 29ers and today I ride 100 % UST. I have a pair of Bontrager Race Xlite 29er rims with ust-valve that's really easy to convert to UST. I also ride a pair of Mavic standard 29er rims which I have converted to UST using only DUCT tape and latex fluid. You can see the work-around here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UeO8Utfny0.
Once everything is sealed it works really nice and the best thing is that the system is self sealing if you happen to get a small flat. Within seconds the tyre puncture will be sealed thus allowing you to keep on riding w/o stops. - You don't have to get off of your bike in the case of small flats. All that happens is that you hear a small hissing and perhaps sense a tiny squirt of latex milk on your leg. But that's that! I still haven't pumped my front tyre since my last "(anti)flat". It's running fine, so why bother ...
The tyres needs refilling with latex once in a while, maybe every 4 to 6 months. But this is indeed a very small trade in compared to not getting flats anymore. Besides, once you get used to handling latex milk it's really not a mess any longer. It's odourless and don't discolour your hands as long as you wipe it off with a cloth. Depending on which tubes you buy I'd even argue that the latex milk will not cost you a lot more than conventional tubes.
Torn sidewalls? you ask. Not a problem! I always carry with me an extra tube and a large patch, just in case. Failing to prepare is preparing to fail I have _never_ experienced a broken valve - don't know how this should happen - but large cuts and torn side walls will eventually stop you. In this case I throw in the extra tube and inflate the tube to less than 30 psi. Remember we're riding low pressure when we're riding UST. This can easily be done with a mini pump - even by a weak armed man like myself. But I confess: I ride with a Co2 pump due to my lack of patience.
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COMFORT
Try and mount an extra layer of handle bar tape if the handle bars vibrates so badly that your fingers get numb.
Another possibility is to ride the bike with lower air pressure. The german bicycle magazine, Tour Magazin, recommend that you ride with 7.5 to 8 bars pressure.
Saddle sore? - Put an extra layer of chamois between your behind and the saddle. Try two pairs of BIB shorts or cycling underwear with chamois.
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WORKSHOP
· Get a work stand. Cords simply are no good. Neither is turning your bike upside down.
· How to get a Polar pulse watch running on your HOMETRAINER:
I own a Polar s710 computer. Partly because of the brillant software, partly because it is possible to mount the sender unit on the rear end of the frame, opposite the crank set. You can adjust the sender to a range om 100 cm's. Open the sender and move the swicth on the battery side of the print one step to the right. That way you get some extra range. I have never had any problems with interference to/from other watches.
· I've tried almost every chain and cassette and here's what I prefer today:
Length of chain: The pulley wheels should stand vertically above each other when the chain is placed on the big chain wheel in front and the smallest cog on the cassette.
During winter training I ride with 2 chains which I rotate. They will both be worn out, come spring, and the same goes for chain wheels and cassette. End of spring I discard all of it.
· Avoid kerosene when it comes to cleaning the chain. The links will dry out and it is extremely difficult to lube a chain, once the inner parts has dried out. Diesel is #1 for cleaning the drivetrain, use it with great care, though. - It's a crime to nature :-(
Note! Never ride with a worn chain on new cogs (or the other way 'round). Buy a chain checker.
· How to measure chain wear with a calliper:
Adjust the calliper to app. 144 - 145 mm. Place the callipers small teath between the chain links and adjust the calliper further, so that the jaws press against the chain links. A new chain measures about 145,1 mm. The chain is trashed when it has been prolonged app. 0,8%, that is: 146,3 mm.
Don't believe the LBS' rap about how chains wear out after 1500 km. That specific figure only tells you ... how far your bike have been ridden ;-) Just keep you chain clean, lube it frequently and remember to dry off surplus oil. That way it'll last the longest. Use the measure method to decide when it's time to change a chain.
After a ride in nasty weather I wash my bike thoroughly, using a hose and a brush (no high pressure washing, please, it soaks the bearings) and place it in the work stand. I dismount the chain and lets a fan air dry the bike. Placed in the work stand, indoors at 20 celsius degrees the bike is dry in an hour or so. Afterwards I use either a chain washer or clean the chain with a cloth. Lube the chain well on the inside. This is where metal-to-metal contact is.
The Nazi Method for the goo-fobic: Put the cassette in the dishwasher and use fluid detergent. The chromed parts comes out of the dishwasher in mint condition. Important note! Don't try this when your spouse is at home.
· Miche or Stronglight chain rings, Sram cassettes and Connex chains k�der are a quality alternative to Shimano drivetrain. The cassettes are 100% compatible with Connex chains, a chain brand I choose due to the very intelligent solution on the problem with chain damage when the chain is broken apart for maintenance. It took me quite a while to figure out how to use the Connex link, though ;-).
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TRAINING
Set some realistic goals for the coming season. Plan
the season together with training pals. Realize the goals
and give yourself and the others credit for the good effort.
· Do things wrong the right way. Afterwards it will be so much easier to do them right.
EKSAMPLES:
Ride in a too high gear on a hill until you pedal "in squares". Jump to a higher gear. Coast down the hill and repeat the exercize until it's not fun any longer.
Train intervals on the hometrainer with only one leg in the cleat: 3 min.s load on one leg - 1 min. recovery using both legs - 3 min. load on other leg and so and so forth - Keep the chain tight and the rythm steady. It is harder and more effective training than you might think.
· Talking 'bout the hometrainer: Put a huge fan in front of the hometrainer while you exercise.
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NUTRITION
· Fruit syrup with a pinch of salt are much cheaper and often just as effective real energy fuel.
· Many supermarkeds offer excellent energy bars which are a good alternative to the "real" power bars.
· Drink every 15 minutes, all year round.
· Use your heart rate monitor to control your energy intake.
If your heart rate monitor has a KCAL functionality you can use it to regulate your intake of energy bar and energy gel. Set watch in KCAL mode, check how many carbs your energy bars hold and eat accordingly.
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